Your post-winter motorcycle checklist: back on the road

Take your bike out of winter storage in three stages: undo the storage prep and inspect it; start it using your model's procedure; check it works normally on a short local ride. Finish each stage and fix any faults before moving on. Getting the engine running is only one of those stages.

This checklist is for a bike that's been laid up for a normal winter. If it's stood for years, been flooded or has an unknown history, get a professional assessment before you try to use it.

Before you press the starter

Read the notes you left during pre-winter preparation. List everything you need to undo: exhaust or intake covers, disconnected battery leads, charging connections, corrosion treatments and security locks. Account for every item before you turn the key.

Look under the bike for fresh stains, then check the wiring and openings you can reach. A nest, a chewed cable or a fuel smell needs investigating before you start it. If you can't tell whether an opening is clear, get it inspected; the starter isn't the way to find out.

Check service dates as well as mileage, because maintenance can fall due on a bike that's barely moved. Honda's CB125F owner's manual specifically calls for inspecting scheduled maintenance items after storage. Use your own model's instructions and settings.

Check tyres, brakes and final drive

Tyres and wheels

Use a gauge to set the right cold road pressures for the load you'll carry, and undo any pressure change you made for storage. Look around the tread and both sidewalls for damage, cracks, objects and changes in shape. Have persistent deformation or unexplained pressure loss assessed. Michelin's motorcycle tyre FAQ explains cold-pressure checks and why a punctured tyre needs a professional inspection.

Plenty of tread isn't the whole story. Think about the tyre's age and how it's been stored too, and follow the maker's replacement advice. If you can't safely roll or support the bike to see a hidden section, get help.

Brakes and suspension

Try each brake with the bike stationary. It should feel normal and release properly. Check the pad wear indicators, hoses and discs you can see, and look for leaks. A light film of surface rust can appear on discs during storage, but heavy corrosion, pitting, contamination or a sticking brake needs assessing before you ride. Don't try a hard stop to clean it off.

Check that the steering moves normally and look over the suspension. A significant fork leak, a damaged sliding surface or unexpected play needs a workshop check. ADAC's start-of-season guidance includes tyres, brakes, fluids and controls in its checks before returning to the road.

Chain, belt or shaft

Follow your model's final-drive instructions. For a chain, look for stiff links, rust and sprocket wear, then check the slack with the bike in the specified position, measured the way the manual says. Keep the engine off throughout, and never use engine power to turn the rear wheel while you clean or lube the chain. Belts and shafts need different checks. If you're unsure of the method or the condition, get it adjusted or repaired.

Battery, fuel and fluids

Inspect the battery and cables before connecting anything. Follow the battery maker's charging instructions and use equipment that suits its voltage and type. Use the bike's manual for refitting, terminal order and securing the leads. A swollen, leaking or damaged battery needs dealing with before use. If it won't crank normally after a proper charge, have the battery and charging system tested. Yuasa's battery care guide explains how the battery, starter and alternator work together.

On a petrol bike, check when you added the fuel and how you prepared it. The restart procedure depends on the tank and fuel system, so follow the manual and the instructions for any treatment you used. If you don't know the fuel's history or condition, ask a workshop about checking it and draining old fuel safely. More additive won't reverse deterioration. On an electric motorcycle, use the maker's traction-battery and charging checks, and leave the battery enclosure closed.

Check oil, coolant if fitted, brake fluid and any other specified fluids the right way. Some checks happen before starting; others need a set engine temperature and waiting time, so do each one when the manual says. Never open a hot cooling system. If a level is low, fluid has gone missing or a replacement interval has passed, work out what servicing is needed rather than just topping up. Colour alone won't tell you the fluid's condition.

The first start after storage

Wheel the bike outside before running the engine, away from doors and windows. Opening the garage door isn't enough. Check again that the exhaust and intake are clear, charging equipment is disconnected as instructed and there are no tools left on the bike.

Follow the manual's starting procedure, including any steps for coming out of storage. Watch the instruments and look for leaks. If it won't start, stick to the cranking and rest limits in the manual rather than cranking until the battery's flat. Stop and investigate unexplained smoke, rough running, a fuel leak or a critical warning.

If you need workshop help, note what happened: no dashboard power, a click, slow cranking, or normal cranking without starting. Add any warning text and how you stored the fuel and battery. That's far more useful than “it won't start”. If further diagnosis would mean unfamiliar electrical or fuel-system work, stop there and hand over your notes.

Check which warning lights should go out on your model, and when. Some stay on until the bike moves; an oil-pressure warning that doesn't clear as specified is a different matter. Don't ride off just to see whether an unfamiliar warning disappears. Finish any temperature-dependent fluid checks when the manual says, then test the lights, indicators, horn and both brake-light controls.

Get yourself ready and keep the first ride short

Before you use public roads, check that your licence, insurance, registration and any required inspection or seasonal permission are current. Look over your riding gear: a clear visor, working fasteners, gloves and boots in good shape, and a helmet whose fit and condition meet its maker's advice.

Pick a short route you know, with easy ways to head home. Give yourself time to get used to the clutch, throttle, steering and brakes again. Once the stationary checks pass, check for normal response at walking pace in a clear, level area where you're allowed to ride. Feeling rusty? A refresher course can help. The Motorcycle Safety Foundation's training directory is one starting point, alongside accredited training in your country.

Check the whole route and the forecast for the ride home. Morning sunshine doesn't clear away grit, potholes or lingering ice. Road surfaces can be colder than the air, as the Met Office explains in its frost and ice guide. Check official warnings and road information, and postpone if conditions aren't right. Our route-weather guide helps with the forecast checks while you're parked.

After the short ride, check again for leaks, warnings and loose fittings without touching hot parts. Recheck tyre pressures once they're cold. Write down anything to sort before a longer trip, then use the everyday pre-ride checklist for later rides.

Your ticks are saved separately from the winter-storage checklist in the same browser. Use Print / save PDF to keep a copy with your service notes, and reset the list next time the bike comes out of storage; old ticks record old checks.